Showing posts with label #buyrealestate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #buyrealestate. Show all posts

Thursday, January 4, 2018

Should I Use a Mortgage Broker or Find My Own Lender?

When shopping around for home loans, potential buyers often ask this question: "Should I use a mortgage broker or find my own lender?" The answer depends on your financial situation, your willingness to fill out paperwork, and your comfort level with the mortgage process.
"It's smart to compare multiple sources to determine the terms that work best for your personal financial situation," says Bruce Elliott, ORRA president and REALTOR® in Orlando, FL.
If there's ever a time to do your research, it's now.
So before you embark on the mortgage process, let's take a look at the pros and cons of hiring a mortgage broker versus finding your own lender.
Using a mortgage broker
A mortgage broker takes your mortgage application and shops it to various lending institutions to find you the best deal. The broker helps you navigate the process with your individual financial needs in mind.
"The mortgage process is so convoluted," says Stephen Rybak, a senior managing director at Guardhill Financial Corp. "Nine out of 10 lenders are offering the same rates. We're here to take care of people and make the process easy."
Using a mortgage broker offers some advantages:
  • You have to fill out the mortgage application only once. After that, the broker contacts the lenders on your behalf.
  • You have an advocate. The mortgage process can be a paperwork nightmare, especially for first-time buyers. A broker helps you with all of it, every step of the way.
  • A broker has access to many different lenders. "We work with more than 50 different banks," says Rybak. "We know the best terms they can offer."
  • If you have anything negative in your credit past, a broker can help. "A mortgage broker can also help borrowers who may have derogatory marks on their credit such as bankruptcy, foreclosure, or late payments history," says Elliott.
Using a mortgage broker has some disadvantages:
  • Paying a fee for the broker's help. It depends on the specifics of the loan and the broker, but having a middleman can sometimes lead to higher fees and costs. Always carefully read all of your loan documents and ask about any fees you don't understand.
  • A slower process. "Working with a broker may slow down your application process, because the broker has to shop around," says real estate expert Michele Lerner.
Going directly to a lender
If you feel comfortable shopping around, going directly to the source—whether it's a bank, credit union, or mortgage company—could be the better option for you.
Going directly to a lender has some advantages:
  • You can be as hands-on as you want to be in finding the right deal for you.
  • If you go with your own banking institution, you may qualify for customer loyalty rates. "Many of these institutions have special programs you may be eligible for, including a low down payment loan," says Lerner.
  • If you use your bank, the paperwork is faster and easier.
Finding your own lender has some disadvantages:
  • It's up to you to do all the shopping around, which can be overwhelming, especially if you're new to the process.
  • You have to fill out a separate application every time. Instead of just one application package, you'll be applying from scratch with each institution you're interested in.
  • You don't get as much guidance. At a bank, you don't get to choose the loan officer you work with.
Feel free to shop around
If you're still not sure, talk to a few mortgage brokers and get quotes from a few banks and see which appeals to you the most. There truly isn't a one-solution-fits-all answer.
Just remember that finding a mortgage interest rate is only the beginning of the process. Ultimately, you're looking for someone—broker or lender—who is going to help you through to closing day, so make sure you choose a mortgage partner you trust and feel confident in.

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Sunday, December 17, 2017

7 Steps to a Stress-Free Home Closing

This cheat sheet helps you do your homework, so you know what you’re signing when you close the sale of your home.
You’ve already cleared several hurdles by finding the right home, negotiating the best price, and getting approved for a mortgage. 
The last obstacle on your homebuying track is the closing, which can be both tedious and tense. By knowing what to expect and doing some legwork, you can smoothly put your closing behind you. These seven steps will guide you.
1. Set a Closing Date
Ask your title company to set a closing date and time that meshes with the end of your lease or the sale of your existing home. Don’t want to skip work? Ask for an evening or weekend closing. Tight on cash? Schedule your closing for the end of the month. That’s when you’ll pay the least amount of interest at the closing table.
2. Gather Your Funds
Buyers usually have to bring money to the closing. Ask the title company what forms of payment it accepts. Chances are you can’t use a personal check.
If you have to move money into your bank account to pay your closing costs, do so a week ahead to avoid last-minute problems. If the title company requires the funds in the form of a cashier’s check, stop by the bank a few days before closing to pick it up.
3. Purchase Title Insurance
If you’re getting a mortgage, you have to buy a title insurance policy. Think it protects you against problems with the title of your home? Nope, it protects the lender in case the sellers really didn’t own the home or someone else had a claim on it.
To cover yourself, you can buy an owner’s title policy from the same insurance company that sells you the lender’s title policy. Or, shop online at Closing.com, EasyTitleQuote.com, or FreeTitleQuote.com. An owner’s title policy insures you against losses from fraudulent claims against your ownership and errors in earlier sales. In some areas, sellers traditionally pay for the buyer’s title policy.
Whether or not you get the owner’s policy, if you buy a title policy from the same company that issued the prior owner’s title insurance, you can ask for a reissue discount or “bring-down” rate. There’s a discount because the title company only has to check the records filed since that prior owner bought the home, not since the dawn of time.
4. Line Up Homeowners Insurance
Get quotes and compare policies to be sure coverage will start by your closing date. An annual policy should run $500 to $1,000, depending on your home’s size, age, and amenities. To get a lower premium, opt for a high deductible or buy your homeowners insurance from the same company that insures your car.
If you live in an area where natural disasters occur, like earthquakes, floods, or hurricanes, you’ll need separate insurance to protect your home from those hazards.
5. Review Your Good Faith Estimate and HUD-1 Settlement Sheet
Your lender already gave you a Good Faith Estimate (GFE) that showed your estimated closing fees. Some of the fees on your GFE can’t change and others can rise by 10%. Before you go to the closing, compare the numbers on your GFE with the numbers on your HUD-1 settlement statement. Question your loan officer about any fees that increased.
6. Do a Walk-Through
Schedule an appointment to walk through the home one last time just before your closing.
  • Make sure repairs you requested have been made.
  • Look for major changes since you last viewed the property.
  • See if the sellers left everything they promised to leave.
  • Check to see that the sellers took all their personal belongings.
  • Test electronics and appliances to ensure they’re still working.
  • Turn on the HVAC and hot water. Are they functioning right?
  • Walk the yard to be sure no plants or shrubs have been removed.
7. Resolve Issues Identified in Your Walk-Through
If your walk-through uncovers problems:

1. Delay the closing until the seller corrects them (if your state allows it). But that’s often not feasible because your lease is probably over and you’ve already scheduled movers. 2. Negotiate a discount to your sales price to cover the cost of the work needed. If the air conditioning is on the fritz and a contractor says the repair will cost $500, ask that the sales price be reduced by that amount. If you make that request at closing, however, be ready for a delay while the title company redoes the paperwork. 3. Have the title company hold a portion of the seller’s proceeds in escrow until the dispute is resolved. Once that happens, the funds will be released to you or the seller, depending on the outcome.
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Thursday, July 6, 2017

WHAT NOT TO DO AS A NEW HOMEOWNER

You’ve finally settled into your new home.

You’re hanging pictures and pinning ideas for your favorite bath. 

But in all your excitement, are you missing something? Now that you’re a bonafide homeowner are there things you should know that you don’t?

Probably so. Here are six mistakes new homeowners often make, and why they’re critically important to avoid.

#1 Not Knowing Where the Main Water Shutoff Valve Is
Water from a burst or broken plumbing pipe can spew dozens of gallons into your home’s interior in a matter of minutes, soaking everything in sight — including drywall, flooring, and valuables. In fact, water damage is one of the most common of all household insurance claims.

Quick-twitch reaction is needed to stave off a major bummer. Before disaster hits, find your water shutoff valve, which will be located where a water main enters your house. Make sure everyone knows where it’s located and how to close the valve. A little penetrating oil on the valve stem makes sure it’ll work when you need it to.

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#2 Not Calling 811 Before Digging a Hole
Ah, spring! You’re so ready to dig into your new yard and plant bushes and build that fence. But don’t — not until you’ve dialed 811, the national dig-safely hotline. The hotline will contact all your local utilities who will then come to your property — often within a day — to mark the location of underground pipes, cables, and wires.

This free service keeps you safe and helps avoid costly repairs. In many states, calling 811 is the law, so you’ll also avoid fines.

#3 Not Checking the Slope of Foundation Soil
The ground around your foundation should slope away from your house at least 6 inches over 10 feet. Why? To make sure that water from rain and melting snow doesn’t soak the soil around your foundation walls, building up pressure that can cause leaks and crack your foundation, leading to mega-expensive repairs.

This kind of water damage doesn’t happen overnight — it’s accumulative — so the sooner you get after it, the better (and smarter) you’ll be. While you’re at it, make sure downspouts extend at least 5 feet away from your house.

#4 Not Knowing the Depth of Attic Insulation
This goes hand-in-hand with not knowing where your attic access is located, so let’s start there. Find the ceiling hatch, typically a square area framed with molding in a hallway or closet ceiling. Push the hatch cover straight up. Get a ladder and check out the depth of the insulation. If you can see the tops of joists, you definitely don’t have enough.

The recommended insulation for most attics is about R-38 or 10 to 14 inches deep, depending on the type of insulation you choose. BTW, is your hatch insulated, too? Use 4-inch-thick foam board glued to the top.

#5 Carelessly Drilling into Walls
Hanging shelves, closet systems, and artwork means drilling into your walls — but do you know what’s back there? Hidden inside your walls are plumbing pipes, ductwork, wires, and cables.

You can check for some stuff with a stud sensor — a $25 battery-operated tool that detects changes in density to sniff out studs, cables, and ducts.

But stud sensors aren’t foolproof. Protect yourself by drilling only 1¼ inches deep max — enough to clear drywall and plaster but not deep enough to reach most wires and pipes.

Household wiring runs horizontally from outlet to outlet about 8 inches to 2 feet from the floor, so that’s a no-drill zone. Stay clear of vertical locations above and below wall switches — wiring runs along studs to reach switches.

#6 Cutting Down a Tree
The risk isn’t worth it. Even small trees can fall awkwardly, damaging your house, property, or your neighbor’s property. In some locales, you have to obtain a permit first. Cutting down a tree is an art that’s best left to a professional tree service.

Plus, trees help preserve property values and provide shade that cuts energy bills. 



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Monday, May 29, 2017

How Much Home Can Your Lifestyle Afford?


If you're considering purchasing a home, you've likely already considered how much you have available for a down payment, what an ideal mortgage payment would be, and how much home you can actually afford based on your monthly income. But what about your lifestyle? Have you considered how much wiggle room you need to leave in your home budget to enjoy life? Here are six life factors to consider when buying a home:

1. Travel

Travel is an important goal for many people. Think about the travel goals you have for yourself:

Where do you want to go?

What do you want to see?

How long are your ideal trips?

How much money would you need on an annual basis to make your travel goals possible?

Is this already factored into your budget or will you need to cut back on travel to fund your monthly mortgage payment and home expenses?

There are no right or wrong answers, but it's important to reflect on your priorities.

2. Green Thumb?

Do you love gardening, being outside, and all things landscaping? If you purchase a home with a lawn and don't enjoy the upkeep, you could be looking at an extra $100 or more a month for professional landscape maintenance. Are you willing to skip the lawn in favor of hardscaping to reduce costs?

Bottom line: Factor hobbies and services into your monthly budget to see if the numbers still work out in the black.

3. Pool Time

How dreamy would it be to buy a home with a pool!? Before the dream becomes reality, add up the costs of pool maintenance and servicing, energy, and insurance (along with liability if you have small children) and you may be better off heading to the neighborhood swimming hole. 

Pools can be a lot of fun, but they come with a lot of work. Factor time and money into your future plans when buying a home with this special feature and, once again, ask yourself if the numbers add up to support your other financial goals.

4. Children 

If you're buying a home and plan to start a family in the next few years, don't just consider the amount of mortgage you can afford under your current expenses. Factor in daycare costs and then determine what your cash flow will look like. You may have to adjust the amount of home you're looking to purchase.

5. Entertainment

Chances are you enjoy dining out, going to concerts and sporting events, and seeing movies. If you need to rein in these activities to make room for your mortgage, home expenses, and savings, aim to strike a balance that won't leave you feeling restless.

After all, you're likely choosing a 30-year mortgage, and three decades is a long time to feel deprived. If necessary, reduce the amount of home you purchase so you can enjoy yourself in the ways that are important to you. 

6. Retirement

If you're in your 20s, you should try to save 10% of your income; in your 30s, you should be saving 15%. If you need to cut back on your retirement savings to make a home purchase work, think hard about when you'll be able to get back to your ideal contribution levels and how much you may be losing out on during that time. 

Although home ownership can help build long-term wealth, it's important to also maintain retirement savings for future security.

Monday, February 29, 2016

Ten Steps to Home Ownership


#1 Getting Ready To Buy

Preparing to buy a home can be exciting and terrifying at the same time. Luckily, Bray Real Estate is ready to lead you in the right direction toward the home of your dreams. You first may want to ask yourself:
  1. What are you looking for in a new home?
  2. How much cash do you want to invest in your purchase?
  3. Have you talked with a lender regarding qualifying and obtaining a mortgage?
You may want to make a list or brainstorm about the features and amenities that you find most appealing in a new home. 

#2 Finding a Realtor

When choosing a Realtor, do not be afraid to meet with many different agents. They are, after all, competing for your business. This competition is what makes the real estate industry successful.Feel free to ask them the following questions:
  1. How many years of experience do you have in this industry?
  2. What is your selling experience in my community?
  3. What professional certifications do you hold (Accredited Buyer Representative (ABR), Certified Residential Specialist – CRS, Graduate REALTOR® Institute (GRI))?
  4. What services will you provide for me as my agent?
  5. How will you represent me as a buyer?
  6. Can you provide as much information as I need about homes in the area that fit into my price range?
  7. What is the fee for your services?
  8. Explain the paperwork that I need to sign
  9. What is my contracted timeframe for using you as my agent?
Once you have chosen an agent, it is important to establish specific goals that you would like to meet. Communication with your agent is key! 

#3 Starting the Loan Process

It is important as a buyer that you establish some kind of financing before you make any serious home offer. The "pre-approval" process allows lenders to take a look at your finances and credit history in order to make a general assumption about your loan amount.
The pre-approval process is when a lender looks at all of your finances and determines the amount of money you could afford for a mortgage.
In order to get pre-approved for a loan, you need to contact a lender. Your agent can help you help you find a lender that you feel comfortable with, and that offers programs best-suited to your needs. 

Now it is time to start the exciting search for homes!
You may want to narrow down your search by asking yourself the following questions:
  1. Where do I want to live?
  2. What is the neighborhood like?
  3. What is the crime rate?
  4. Would I be moving into a good school district?
  5. Are there any zoning restrictions?
  6. How far is this home from my job?
  7. What is my price range?
  8. How many bedrooms and bathrooms do I want?
  9. What style of house am I attracted to?
  10. What amenities do I desire (ex. pool, fenced-in yard, etc.)?
  11. Does this home have potential to increase in value?
  12. Is there room to expand if we need to in the future?
Searching for a home is becoming easier than years ago. We now have the Internet as a powerful "home finding tool," as well as the MLS (Multiple Listing Service) and print advertising. 

#5 Finding Your New Home

Beginning the search for your new home can be a great feeling. It is important that you directly communicate with your real estate agent about the desires you have for your new home.
You may want to first begin by making a list of the features and benefits that are most important in your pursuit of finding a home.
These could be:
  1. Location
  2. Affordability
  3. Size
  4. Style
  5. Design
  6. Amenities
Looking for a home in an area where you feel comfortable is key. If appropriate, instruct your real estate agent to look for homes in the specific areas you have designated. 

#6 Making an Offer on a Home

Selecting a home should be relatively easy once a home falls somewhere in your criteria and the property is desirable for purchase.
You will want to inform your real estate agent what you like about the house and make a list of your likes and dislikes with the property. Though you will most likely have done this already in a general sense, it is important to do it again for specific homes you have in interest in.
In the negotiation process you may accept the seller's asking price and have your agent write up the contract or reject the seller's asking price and have your agent make a different offer. 

#7 Financing

Doing your homework about loans will save you time and money. There are thousands of loans out there to choose from, but it is important to keep in mind several key factors that will help you along the way:
  1. How much money should you put down?
  2. How is your credit?
  3. Is this your first home?
Receiving a loan requires completion of a loan application and specific financial documents including pay stubs, rental checks and/or tax returns. You can receive a loan from a number of different financial institutions, namely: commercial banks, credit unions, mortgage bankers, mortgage brokers, savings and loan associations, mutual savings banks and insurance companies. 

#8 Insurance

Insuring your home is like making an investment in your future. You work hard to have a home; homeowners insurance protects you and your family from someone or something taking it all away.
There are many different forms of insurance:
Title Insurance - Protects you in the event that the title on your property has a lien, unpaid taxes, or other legalities that would make it invalid.
Homeowners' Insurance - Protects your home from fire, theft and other liable coverage.
Flood Insurance - Protects your home from flood damage.
Home Warranty - Offers buyers and sellers the peace of mind that should anything unexpected happen (due to normal, every day wear and tear) of the home's appliances, heating, air conditioning, plumbing, and electrical systems, it will be repaired (or replaced in some cases) for you without costly fees. 

#9 Closing Procedures

The closing process is always changing. It is even referred to as "settlement" or "escrow" in different parts of the country. With increased technology, most closings are completely automated and both parties do not have to be present at the same time to sign.
Closings usually occurs about 30 days after a contract is signed by both parties. This mainly depends on the buyer's financing availability, successful home inspection completion, and various lender conditions (ex. title search, title insurance, termite inspections, surveys and appraisals).
The closing process is the transfer of the title of the property from the buyer to the seller. The buyer will receive the keys to the home or the deed to the land, while the seller receives payment for the property. The amount the seller receives is based upon the amount that is still owed on the mortgage, any outstanding fees or taxes, and any additional closing costs.
All legal papers are filed with the local record office.
Prior to closing, it is important as the seller to take a final walk through the property to make sure the property's condition as not changed. It is equally important for both the buyer and seller to make sure the paperwork they are signing reflects the agreement of the original sale. 

#10 Settling In

You have unpacked your boxes, arranged your furniture, and feel complete with your moving task.
What's next?  Enjoy your new home!      

Monday, November 16, 2015

Deductions for Homeowners

What's Deductible? -- A to Z
Acquisition debt. See Mortgage interest.
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Boats as homes. A boat that has eating, sleeping and sanitary facilities can qualify as a first or second home, so you can deduct mortgage interest paid on the loan secured by the boat to buy it. However, if you are subject to the alternative minimum tax, this write-off is not allowed.

Cancelled debt on foreclosure or short sale. Generally, when a debt is canceled or forgiven, the borrower is considered to have received taxable income equal to the amount of the canceled debt. However, through 2012, up to $2 million of debt discharged on a mortgage on a principal residence -- in a foreclosure, for example, or short sale -- can be tax-free.
Casualty loss. If your home was damaged or destroyed -- by fire or storm, for example -- you may be able to get financial help from Uncle Sam by deducting a casualty loss on your return. Your deduction for a 2010 loss is generally the total of your unreimbursed loss reduced by $500 100 and further reduced by 10% of your adjusted gross income.

Depreciation on home. Profit due to depreciation claimed on your residence before May 7, 1997 -- because you had a home office, for example, or at one time rented out the property -- qualifies for the rule that lets you treat $250,000 of home sale profit as tax-free income. (The limit is $500,000 if you're married and file a joint return.) Profit due to depreciation after May 6, 1997, is taxed at 25%, unless you're in a lower tax bracket, in which case that rate applies.
Discharged debt. See Cancelled debt on foreclosure or short sale.
D.C. first-time homebuyer credit. If you bought a home in the nation's capital during 2010, you may be eligible for a $5,000 tax credit. It doesn't really have to be your first home ... just a home you purchased in the District of Columbia after not owning one in D.C. for at least one year. It doesn't matter if you have owned a home elsewhere. This break phases out as income exceeds $70,000 on single returns and $110,000 on married filing jointly returns. See first-time homebuyer credit. If you bought during the part of 2010 when the nationwide homebuyer credit was available (see below), you must choose between the two credits. You can’t claim both.

Energy credits. You can earn a 2009 tax credit for installing energy-saving home improvements such as new doors, new windows, energy-efficient furnaces, heat pumps, hot water heatersair conditioners, etc. The credit is 30% of the cost of installing such energy savers, up to a top credit of $1,500. For windows and doors, the credit is based on the cost of the materials; for furnaces and air conditioners and the like, you can count the cost of installation, too. A bigger credit is available for more ambitious projects – like solar hot-water heating systems, geothermal heat pumps and, yes, even residential wind energy systems. Start generating your own power and Uncle Sam will rebate 30% of the full cost of your system…with no dollar cap.

First-time homebuyer credit. If you bought a home during the first four months of 2010, you may qualify for either an $8,000 or $6,500 home buyer credit. And, you don’t really have to be a first-time home buyer to qualify for either credit. To qualify for the $8,000 credit you (and your spouse if married) must not have owned a home in the three years leading up to the purchase of your new home. The credit is 10% of the purchase price of the home, up to a maximum credit of $8,000. No credit is allowed for homes that cost more than $800,000.
To qualify for the $6,500 credit, you must be a long-time homeowner, defined as owing and living in the same principal residence for five of the eight years leading up to the purchase of your new home. The credit is 10% of the purchase price of the home, up to a maximum credit of $6,500. No credit is allowed for homes that cost more than $800,000.
Timing is everything. To qualify for either credit, you must have signed a binding contract on your new home before May 1, 2010, and you must have closed on the deal by September 30, 2010.
Unlike a first-time home buyer credit available in 2008 – which had to be paid back over 15 years by adding $500 in each of those years to the taxpayer’s tax bill – the 2010 credit does not have to be paid back, as long as you live in the principal residence for at least three years.
First-time homebuyer credit repayment. The $7,500 first-time homebuyer credit that was available for qualifying purchases after April 8, 2008, and before January 1, 2009, must be repaid starting with your 2010 tax return. To repay this “interest-free loan”, you must add $500 each year to your tax bill until the full $7,500 is repaid. If you sell or otherwise stop using the house as your home before the credit is fully repaid, any remaining balance must be repaid with your tax return for the year of the sale.
Foreclosure. See Cancelled debt on foreclosure or short sale.

Home-equity debt. Interest on up to $100,000 of debt secured by your first or second home -- using a second mortgage, say, or home equity line of credit -- can be deducted, regardless of how the money is used. The use of home-equity debt gives homeowners an opportunity to skirt the rules that generally block the deduction of debt used to buy automobiles, for example, or pay for vacations.
Home-office deduction. You can deduct the costs of a home office that you use exclusively and regularly for business. This includes depreciation, utilities and insurance for the office portion of your home. To qualify for the tax break you must either meet with clients there regularly, or the home office must be your principal place of business (unless it is not attached to your house).
Home-sale exclusion. Up to $250,000 of profit from the sale of your home can be tax free; $500,000 if you are married an file a joint return. To qualify, you must own and live in the house for periods totaling two years out of the five years leading up to the sale. A reduced exclusion is available if you fail the two-year test due to unforeseen circumstances such as a move resulting from a job change, for example, or divorce. You can use this exclusion any number of times but no more frequently than once every two years.
IRA payouts for first-time homebuyers. You can withdraw as much as $10,000 from a traditional IRA before age 59½ without penalty if the money is used to buy the first home for yourself, a child or grandchild, or your parents or grandparents. Although the payout avoids the normal 10% early-withdrawal penalty, it is taxed. Different rules apply to tapping a Roth IRA for the purchase of a home. See Roth IRA payouts for first-time homebuyers.

Loan prepayment penalties. If your lender charges you a penalty for prepaying your mortgage early, the charge is deductible as mortgage interest.

Mortgage interest. You can deduct interest on up to $1.1 million of loans used to buy or build or improve your first or second home and secured by the property. Up to $1 million of such debt is called acquisition debt, which must be used to acquire or improve the property, and up to $100,000 more is called home equity debt, which can be used for any purpose.
Mortgage interest credit. If you received a mortgage credit certificate from a state or local governmental agency, you can claim a tax credit of up to $2,000 of mortgage interest paid.
Moving expenses. If a move is connected with taking a new job that is at least 50 miles farther from your old home than your old job was, you can deduct travel and lodging expenses for you and your family and the cost of moving your household goods. If you drive your own car, you can deduct 24 16.5 cents a mile for 2009 2010 moves. (For 20102011, the standard mileage rate for moving is 16.519 cents a mile.) If you moved to take your first job, the 50-mile test applies to the distance between your old home and your new job. The deduction is allowed even if you do not itemize deductions.

Parsonage allowance. For members of the clergy, the value of a home provided by the church is a tax-free fringe benefit. A housing allowance is also tax-free.
Points. Points you pay to get a mortgage for your principal residence are generally fully deductible in the year paid, even if you persuade the seller to pay your points for you. They are not deductible if paid as part of a refinancing a mortgage on your principal home or on a second home; in that those cases, you deduct the points over the life of the loan.
Presidentially declared disaster. If your home was damaged or destroyed in an area that the President declared a disaster area, special rules apply to the casualty loss deduction. For one thing, for 2009 losses the law waives the requirement that you reduce your loss by an amount equal to 10% of your adjusted gross income to arrive at the deduction. And, youYou may choose to deduct your loss in the year it occurred or the previous year, whichever is more advantageous. If you claim a 2010 loss on a 2009 amended return, for example, you’ll get your tax savings via a refund check from the IRS.
Property taxes. See Real estate taxes.

Real estate taxes. You can deduct state and local real estate taxes paid during the year on any number of personal residences you own. (A 2009 break that allowed homeowners who claimed If you choose to claim the standard deduction rather than itemize deductions, you canto boost their standard deduction to include some of the property tax they paid was not renewed for 2010.)add $500 if single or $1,000 if married filing jointly to the regular standard deduction amount if you paid at least that much in state and local real estate taxes. If you own rental properties, real estate taxes on them are deducted on Schedule E where you report rental income.
Real estate taxes when you buy a home. If you bought a home during the year, check to see if the seller had prepaid property taxes for a period you actually owned the home. If so, include that amount in your property tax deduction for the year . . .even if you did not reimburse the seller.
Recreational vehicle. If your RV has cooking, sleeping and sanitation facilities, interest on a loan used to buy it can qualify as deductible mortgage interest on a first or second home. If you are subject to the alternative minimum tax, interest on an RV loan is not deductible.
Refinancing points. Generally, points paid when refinancing are deducted over the term of the loan. But if you refinanced a loan that you previously refinanced, you can deduct in full the as-yet-undeducted points remaining on the prior loan. There's a catch, however: If you refinanced with the same lender, the remaining points must be amortized over the term of the new loan.
Rehabilitation credit. If your residence is certified by the government as a historic building, you can claim a tax credit for 20% of the cost of renovating it. The renovation must be substantial, and the expenses must be incurred within a 24-month period.
Reverse mortgage. Amounts received under a reverse mortgage -- either a lump sum payment or periodic payments -- are tax free. Interest that accrues on a reverse mortgage is not deductible until it is paid, and then only interest on up to $100,000 of debt can qualify.
Roth IRA payouts for first-time homebuyers. Because the rules for the Roth IRA allow you to withdraw contributions at any time without penalty, the Roth can be a powerful tool for saving for a first home. Say you and your spouse each put $5,000 a year into a Roth for five years. The entire $50,000 could be withdrawn tax- and penalty-free for a down payment and, because the accounts have been opened for at least five years, up to $10,000 of earnings can be withdrawn tax- and penalty-free if used to buy your first home.
Serial refinancers.If you refinanced in 2010 and paid off a home mortgage you acquired when refinancing to pay off an earlier mortgage, any as-yet-undeducted points on the previous refinancing may be deductible on your 2010 return. See Refinancing points.
Tax-free profit. See Home sale exclusion.
Tax-free profit on vacation home. Because you can use the home-sale exclusion repeatedly, it's possible to make profit on a vacation home tax free. If you move into the place and live there for two of the five years prior to selling it, you can qualify to claim up to $250,000 of profit tax free (up to $500,000 if you are married and file a joint return).
A recent change in the law, however, has diluted the potential value of this break. For vacation homes converted to principal residences after December 31, 2008, a portion of the gain will be taxed. The taxable part will be based on the ratio of the time after 2008 when the house was a second home or a rental to the total time you owned it.
Tax-free rental income. If you rent out your home for 14 or fewer days during the year -- when there's a major sporting event or political convention in your hometown, for example -- the rental income is tax-free, regardless of how much you make.
Vacation home. Mortgage interest on your second home is deductible, just as it is for your principal residence. Property taxes can be deducted on any number of homes. If you rent the place for 14 or fewer days during the year, the rental income is tax-free to you. If you rent it for more than 14 days a year, you must report the income, but also may claim deductions for rental expenses.

Friday, October 23, 2015

6 Real Estate Tips for Choosing Your Dream Home

The term “dream home” means a lot of different things to a wide variety of people.
To some, it means a cozy cabin on an acre or two of lake-front property near a small town. To others, it means an average-sized two-story dwelling in a friendly suburb. And then there are people who want the $1.3 million New York City apartment with views of the Empire State Building.
Regardless of what type of person you are or what type of home suits your fancy the most, there are a lot of important decisions that go into picking out your dream home. In this article, we’ll give you 6 real estate tips to consider when trying to select the home your heart craves most of all. And they are:
Square Footage
If you time-travel back to 30 years in the past, homes were usually around 1,645 square feet in size. Today, that number has gone up to 2,195. But since the housing bubble burst, that number is starting to shrink as people eliminate superfluous rooms like “exercise rooms, offices, studies, and media rooms”. Really, it all comes down to how much — or little — house do you want and/or need.
Floorplan
Do you like your home with rooms that are intimate and traditional, or do you prefer an open floor plan that will help facilitate parties, family get-togethers, and other forms of entertainment? Neither is better than the other; it just all comes down to need and personal preference.
Home Grade
This section could also be labeled “cost,” because the grade of home you want affects the price. Obviously, a home with granite countertops, authentic stone floors, and mahogany wood paneling is going to cost much more than a home with laminate counters, ceramic flooring, and pine paneling. If you want a green home (i.e. one with “zero-voc paint, bamboo floors, and recycled counters”), that will also affect price. Decide what you want and make sure it fits your budget.
Landscaping
Sure, a big, beautiful, well-maintained lawn sounds good in theory, but are you willing to perform the necessary upkeep? Opting for a condo or townhouse decreases your lawn maintenance, but it could also hinder your entertaining, especially if you’re a fan of cook-outs and flag football. Determine if you’re willing to put the time into a lawn; if you don’t want one, nix houses with large yards from your search.
Neighborhood
Picking a neighborhood can be hard. If you have children (or plan on having some in the future), your choice will probably determine what public school they attend. Other things that can influence your choice are your daily commute to work, whether or not you want to be in a historic part of town, what kind of demographics interest you the most, or how close you want to be to your city’s dining and entertainment venues. Figure out where you are in life — and where you’re headed — and plan accordingly.
Surrounding Area
This one relates back to the previous section. What kind of dining, shopping, and entertainment options do you need to be near your dream home? (For example, I know I personally have to live within 15 minutes of a Wal-Mart in order to get by.) Be sure to scope out what’s available to you in the town/city that interests you. That way, you won’t be disappointed down the road when you discover your dream home is nowhere near your favorite chain restaurant.